WASHINGTON, D.C. — The Lake Erie grape belt is the largest grape-growing region in North America east of the Rocky Mountains and is home to an industry rooted in nearly 30,000 acres of Concord grape vines.
For decades, growers in the Lake Erie grape belt have relied on selling their crops in bulk to processors. But that market could be withering on the vine.
In early March, beverage giant Refresco — a major buyer in the region — announced it would stop purchasing Concord and Niagara grapes effective immediately, leaving thousands of acres — and livelihoods — hanging in the balance.
“You’re talking 3,000 acres of grapes that may not get taken care of. That’s going to be an issue. That is a huge issue,” said Nick Mobilia, a member of the Erie County Farm Bureau and owner of Arrowhead Wine Cellars.
In a statement, Refresco said the move stems from “sustained grape market challenges and supply imbalances that we do not expect will recover in the foreseeable future.”
“Everybody will lose money in the next few years trying to figure out how to deal with this,” said Sam Valone, a Pennsylvania grape farmer impacted by Refresco’s exit.
Now, federal lawmakers are trying to keep the industry afloat. Some, are floating options like having the USDA purchase the grapes that currently have nowhere to go.
“We are going to call on the USDA to buy these grapes to make sure that they have a market,” said Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand, D-N.Y. “I’m going to use every power I have to get the USDA to buy those grapes so our farmers stay in business.”
“I have supported the USDA buying bulk Concord grape product for my entire time in Congress, and they have,” said Rep. Nick Langworthy, R-N.Y.
However, Langworthy says the issue — and the industry as a whole — will need more than government intervention.
“This is not something that — long range — will fix the issue. I mean, Concord grape juice isn’t as high a priority in the American diet as it once was,” said Langworthy. “We have to really look at the Concord industry as a whole, and they have to be right-sized to a point where we don’t have massive surpluses, which just drives down their price each and every year,” he added.
House Agriculture Committee Chairman Glenn Thompson, R-Pa., says he’s looking at ways to pour more grape juice into federal nutrition programs. But ultimately, Thompson believes a private sector solution could be the best option.
“A buyout program wouldn’t give you the full value of the grape juice,” said Thompson. “I’m looking more for a private sector type solution here,” he added.
In the meantime, local growers are left to grapple with the consequences of a sudden, bitter reality.
“We’ve got a long road to go. And it’s going to be tough,” said Mobilia.
As lawmakers try to keep this legacy industry from drying up, many farmers who rely on Refresco to process a large percentage of their grapes, fear the decision will leave them no choice but to shut down their multi-generation grape growing operations.
“I know. I know many of them. I’ve represented a number of them in the past,” said Thompson. “I want them to be encouraged that I’m trying to do my best as chairman of the House Agriculture Committee to find a new market.”
Growers in Pennsylvania and New York say it’s pivotal that stakeholders in both states stay on the same page when addressing the issue.
“You can’t have New York saying something, Pennsylvania saying something. We need to speak with one voice,” said Mobilia.
Industry stakeholders say this problem goes beyond Pennsylvania and New York, with supply and pricing in states like Michigan affecting growers nationwide. Any solution, they say, must be national.
